clothes and fashion

作文は私を学校に思い浮かぶくせに、今日私の職業について概論をかく。
灼13年間私は服作りで稼いでる。服作りということはデザインから作った服まで全部の要素をする。
その仕事を選べる訳は昔売られた服が好きじゃなかった、自分で作った方がいいと思って、服の工作を勉強することをした。アイデアどうせ勉強出来ないけど、工作を分かると、自分のアイデアを及べるようになる。

スーツは我の得意技だから、以下は今の針中のスーツ。
服になると、まずデザインが考える、次はパターンが書てる。

so in case anybody is interested in what i am doing here, i dont know that either, but i can tell you what i do when i am at work… namely making clothes, for the past 13 years now… in the end i chose to do so, because i wasnt really satisfied with the clothing range, when i was younger… im still not really satisfied,but that is mainly due to the fact, that it is often difficult to find clothes for men, especially some that are affordable… anyway, i just thought “then i am going to make my own clothes”, learned how to do it and that was that… first i wanted to study design, but in my opinion, that would have been a waste of time, since you cant really study how to get ideas.. youre either creative, or you are not… not bad if you arent, of course..
why i got to write that in three different languages, is beyond me, but given the chance to prove that i am not able to speak one language properly, how could i ever refuse?

my speciality (so to speak) are suits… i made suits for people with too much money for five years and after that i made the mens costumes at a theatre for another five years (for people who earn too much money)…
so when it comes to clothes, you of course first start with an idea, or a design (the word is far to overrated these days), after that you draw a pattern and cut the fabrics… in case of bespoke clothes i got to take measurements beforehand…

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この後、生地でパターンが切れて、毛糸で服の部分が縫いて、フィッチングをするものだ。
フィッチング中、修正が必要かどうかは見える。未知の客はフィッチングは二回目か三回目。最初のは袖と裏地じゃなく手で縫った服でやってる、次は襟じゃなくて、裏地はまだ不動じゃない服でやってる。

次は服の部分がポツポツで作ってる。私はいつも正面で取り掛かる。キャンバスをつくって、アイオンで形作って、キャンバスを下縫って、ポッケットを作ってる。

after the fabrics are cut, you first got to put everything together by hand, using a cotton thread… that is done for the first fitting… during the fitting you check what has to be altered and the cotton thread is just easier to be removed again, since you have to disassemble everything again after the first (of two, or three) fitting… then you start finishing the seperate parts, attaching the canvas, sewing the pcokets, doing the same with the lining, before you can put everything together… except for long straight lines, everything is sewn by hand… i ususally start with the front, then i put the jacket together (without sleeves), do the sleeves, the collar, the lining and so on…

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この後ラペルが小さいステッチで形作られてる。

since the lapel is the center of attraction, its always somehow nice to give it a nice shape…

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写真で見て通り。この小さいステッチおかげで、ラペルは自ずから転んでる。工場の作った服にくらべて、形はより優良になる。その上に、形が永遠に守られてる。

you do this by tiny stitches, which not only attache the canvas to the fabric, but also give it a round shape, which can be seen on the pictures below… btw, you can not iron it flat anymore after this step… (that is one of the main differences between handmade and factory made clothes… and believe me, you can see it, as i can see if you iron your shoulders, or not…)

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服の部分はすべて仕立てれば、部分はミシンで組み合わせて、裏地が縫って、つけて、袖が入れる。今の状態の服がも一回アイオンでプレスしなければならない。
アイオンをかかりやすいために、釦とボタン穴は一番最後に作ってるものだ。

when all the parts are finished, you sew the sleeves, sew the jacket and press it with an iron (its also possible to shape the jacket using steam and an iron)… then you sew the button holes, iron again and the last part are the buttons… and if you did everything the way its supposed to be, congratulations, you look better than most (or all) people around you…

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